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Dry versus dehydrated skin

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Dry skin is the most common complaint I hear in my treatment room. I think it’s important to understand the difference between dry and dehydrated skin.

Dry skin is a skin type that is related to oil production. Skin is genetically predisposed to inadequate oil production, which lead to chronic dryness, or skin becomes dry and oil production decreases with age.

Skin with normal oil production will have a light hydrolipid film composed of oil. The T zone may produce more oil than other areas. Having that light hydrolipid film is very important. Too many times clients try to strip their skin too much. Different types of exfoliation from cleansers to brushes all contribute to stripping the skin. Finding balance is very important because too much exfoliation (removing hydrolipid film) will lead to premature aging, cronic ski inflamation and can cause other skin problems. Everyone needs this film to keep the skin properly protected and hydrated.

Dry skin is lacking hydrolipid film appears tight, dull or many times shows signs of premature aging. This dryness and lack of barrier function is a leading cause of dehydration, because with no protective barrier, skin is susceptible to transepidermal water loss. In this case, even if enough water is being taken in, the skin will be inable to retain the hydration.

Dehydration is a skin condition that is related to the water content of the skin. We can experience epidermal or dermal dehydration, but in many cases we can have both. Each has different causes and treatments and, much like dryness and dehydration, these two conditions often overlap and closely impact one another. Well hydrated skin will appear smooth and dewy on the surface. The epidermis will be plump, supple and bounce back easy, indicating good elasticity. Epidermal dehydration is indicated by crepiness or small lines that form when the skin is manipulated during skin analysis. Scales may form in case of more severe, chronic surface dehydration. Dermal dehydration causes depletion of the dermis and will ultimately result in deeper wrinkles that are visible on the surface of the skin, as well as elastosis and sagging skin.

Treatment options:

Oxygen infusion of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is well known as one of the most effective skin hydrating ingredients. We need to use multiple weights in a formulation in order to address different aspects of hydration.

Red LED light therapy can improve all aspects of dryness and dehydration. The red LED can improve barrier function by increasing oil production and skin perspiration to enhance the hydrolipid film.

Using proper skin care routine will maintain a proper level of hydration on the skin. I suggest to all my clients to use a hyaluronic serum day and night underneath their misturizer to ensure proper hydration and maintain healthy barrier function of their skin.

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LED Facial-Does it really work?

Nobody likes the idea of aging. No one wants wrinkles, grey hair, crow`s feet or liver spots. Luckily, we have technology and the demand to always look for new solutions to help us slow down the aging process.

One of the new technologies is LED facial therapy. I have introduced it in my studio about a month ago, and the most common question I get is if its really working and what does it do.

LED therapy is a medical treatment in which beams of light supposedly melt the years away. How does that work? Our body`s own aging process, coupled with exposure to the sun and pollution, destroys collagen. Collagen is the connective tissue in our bodies that keeps skin healing and wrinkle free.

LED therapy uses highly concentrated beams of light energy to tunnel through the skin and jump start the body`s natural collagen production.

The panel that is placed over your face consists of different lights. Amber- to build new collagen and elastin, red- to reduce inflammation and promote circulation, blue-to destroy acne causing bacteria and infra red to accelerate skin recovery. I have the ability to choose appropriate setting for your skin type.

The LED facial can remind you of sunbathing but there is no UV exposure, the panel that I use in my treatment room is FDA approved and it is not damaging to your eyes.

The treatment is very relaxing, effective and you will see immediate improvement and more results in a couple of days. Skin will appear smoother and clearer.

You can choose  between doing a series of quick 20 minutes sessions twice a week for 4-6 weeks, or you can simply add it to any facials of your choice to boost the results and prolong the benefit of a facial. It is one of the few machines that is appropriate for all skin types.

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Clarisonic Brush

The reason why I want to talk about the Clarisonic brush is because I have observed changes in mu clients skin that use the brush. Some of the changes that I have seen have not been beneficial to the health of their skin.

My goal is to educate you with helpful skin tips and for you to become smarter skin care consumer. I feel this is important information to share with all of you who currently use it, or are considering purchasing it.

Clarisonic brush is an exfoliating tool that physically lift off dry skin cells and, in the process remove dirt and make up. Exfoliation is the action that the bristles create when rubbed over the skin.

The problem that I see is not the brush itself, but it concerns me how often is recommended to use it. They claim it is gentle enough to use it twice daily, but I belief that this is way to much when combining with other exfoliating products you are probably using.

-Exfoliating too much and too often can cause dryness and disrupt the skin`s barrier. This allows moisture to seep out of the cells more easy, causing them to get dehydrated. Many clients who I see on monthly bases have started complaining of dryness and irritation when their skin had been so hydrated and balanced. After our chat about what had changed, I come to find out that they started using Clarisonic brush. Cutting back or discontinuing the use of Clarisonic returned their skin to a healthy, balanced and hydrated state.

-Too much exfoliation can cause chronic inflammation within the skin, setting off a response to create free radicals. A major cause of aging and prolonged inflammation, associated with tissue destruction, active inflammation and attempts at healing which is why it`s essential to eat foods high in antioxidants and use skin care products with stable antioxidants.

-Skin trauma is good, but only occasionally. We should never exfoliate to the point of destroying healthy cells. When you give the skin trauma, the skin goes into repair mode and stimulates cellular regeneration. This is very beneficial to the skin, but if you create trauma too often by over exfoliating, then its continually setting up a cascade of free radical damage that triggers premature aging. This is the last thing that any skin needs. However, professional chemical peels done a few times a year do cause trauma to  the skin and this is beneficial for the stimulation of collagen.

-Too much exfoliation can also stimulate melanin production resulting in increased skin discoloration. You must use caution with the skin that is extremely reactive  to discoloration. Treat it gently to avoid post -inflammatory hyper pigmentation resulting in increased skin discoloration.

The conclusion is that exfoliating is good, but to the certain point. I do not recommend using Clarisonic brush more than once a week with the combination of other exfoliating products.

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Dry vs. Dehydrated Skin: Causes and Treatments

Dry skin may be one of the most common client complaints, especially when working with mature clients. The first step in addressing this problem is to differentiate between dryness and dehydration. It is important to separate these two issues initially in order to determine potential causes. Once this has been done, the whole picture can be evaluated to develop an effective treatment plan. There will often be overlap, and the two issues usually impact one another directly. Fortunately, there are a range of modalities available from traditional treatments to cutting-edge technologies to help comfort and treat both dry and dehydrated skin.

Indications and appearance of dry skin

Dry skin is a skin type that is related to oil production. Skin is genetically predisposed to inadequate oil production, which leads to chronic dryness, or skin may become dry as oil production decreases with age. Skin with normal oil production will have a light hydro lipid film composed of oil, as well as perspiration and moisture from the air. The t-zone may produce more oil than other areas. Commonly, clients observe oil in the t-zone and believe that they have overactive oil production. Many believe that skin with no oil whatsoever is the healthiest and so, even those with normal oil production may resort to stripping their skin with harsh cleansers and electrical brushes in order to remove all traces of it. It must be understood that they need this film to keep skin properly protected and hydrated. Dry skin presents with a lacking or nonexistent hydro lipid film. It may appear tight, dull or may show signs of premature aging. This dryness and lack of barrier function is a leading cause of dehydration because, with no protective barrier, skin is susceptible to trans epidermal water loss. In this case, even if enough water is being taken in, the skin will be unable to retain that hydration.

Potential causes: Because dryness is a skin type, those afflicted are simply genetically predisposed to inadequate oil production. However, several factors can worsen this type of skin or make otherwise normal skin feel dry by reducing surface oil. Some of these factors include powdery makeup that absorbs the oil, using harsh products that strip away oil instead of those that are additive and protective, as well as certain medications.

Indications and appearance of dehydrated skin

Dehydration is a skin condition that is related to the water content of the skin. Dehydrated skin can include epidermal dehydration, dermal dehydration or both. Each has different causes and treatments and, much like dryness and dehydration, these two conditions often overlap and closely impact one another. Well-hydrated skin will appear smooth and dewy on the surface. The epidermis will be plump, supple and bounce back easily, indicating good elasticity. Epidermal dehydration is indicated by creepiness or small lines that form when the skin is manipulated during skin analysis. Scales may form in the case of more severe, chronic surface dehydration. Dermal dehydration causes depletion of the dermis and will ultimately result in deeper wrinkles that are visible on the surface of the skin, as well as elastosis and sagging skin.

Potential causes: Common causes of epidermal dehydration include lifestyle choices, such as smoking, medication or illness; a diet high in salt or stimulants, such as coffee; environmental factors, such as seasonal changes and the artificial indoor environments caused by both heating and air conditioning; or sun damage, which can cause moisture loss and lead to dermal dehydration. Additionally, those with redness-prone or rosacea skin can often experience a trans epidermal water loss higher rate of epidermal dehydration, because the heat present with their condition can encourage , especially in the instance of impaired barrier. Although drinking enough water is vitally important to hydrated skin, this alone cannot prevent dehydration. Even if a client drinks the right amount of water, if the skin’s barrier is impaired, the water is likely to be lost through trans epidermal water loss.
Professional treatment options:
Oxygen infusion of multi-weight hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is well-known as one of the most effective skin-hydrating ingredients. The introduction of a low-weight hyaluronic acid allows hydration to penetrate deeper and more quickly in order to aid in improving elasticity. Additionally, a high-weight hyaluronic acid sits nearer to the surface of the skin and acts similarly to a dermal filler, helping improve surface hydration, and make fine lines and wrinkles appear less visible. Oxygen stimulates the body’s natural healing function. It’s anti-inflammatory and stimulates collagen production. It’s also antibacterial. When I do oxygen treatments on client’s skin, you can see it instantly gets glowy, dewy, hydrated and calmer.

Red LED light therapy. Use of the red LED light can improve all aspects of dryness and dehydration. The red LED light can improve barrier function by increasing oil production and skin perspiration to enhance the hydro lipid film. Although an adequate barrier will not ensure proper hydration; generally, proper hydration cannot exist without a functional barrier. Additionally, red LED light will help improve function in the dermal layers. Red LED light therapy has been shown to “trigger repair mechanisms that stimulate fibroblast activity and new cell growth for tighter, rejuvenated skin.” This increase in activity boosts collagen and other proteins that are critical for the skin’s ability to retain hydration. This increase in important skin proteins simultaneously improves elastosis caused by chronic dehydration. The best and optimal solution treatment is the combination of Oxygen infusion facial with LED light treatment. Skin will instantly feel and look healthy, hydrated and glowing

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Pumpkin Peel

Pumpkin is a rich storehouse of Vitamin A, C, Beta-Carotene, potassium and zink. It is antioxidant-rich  and helps in fighting  free radicals in an effective way. It has natural enzymes that improve skin tone and the hydroxyl acid in pumpkin help to exfoliate the skin.

Benefits of pumpkin peel:

  • Improves texture of skin to make it look healthy and nourished.
  • Recovers overall complexion of face.
  • Targets hyper-pigmentation and acne problems.
  • Gets rid of dead skin cells by superior exfoliation.
  • Stimulates collagene and elastin production.
  • Perks up the cell renewal process.
  • Softens wrinkles as well as fine lines and brings significant reduction in signs of aging.